Turkevich biography

Posted October 11, Published October 11, Modified October 24, Updated October 24, Mikhail Turkevich. The life of the forty years ago of the Donetsk climber on October 11, in the history of sports Donbass there are sufficiently memorable dates, the large list contains special, and even iconic ones. Donetsk mountaineering in this regard was no exception. The history of world mountaineering deservedly entered the multiple medalist of the championships and championships of the USSR for mountaineering and climbing, multiple organizer of expeditions in the Himalayas, Honored Master of Sports of the Soviet Union Mikhail Turkevich.

The first Soviet Himalayan expedition, which was preceded by years, was conquered by Jomolungma in the spring of the distant year, precisely the years of training. A special ceremony of Puju in the eastern part of Nepal, Sherpas live in the Everest area, the descendants of the Tibetans, who emigrated more than five hundred years ago to the south of the Himalayan ridge.

For them, Jomolungma is sacred, because, according to their beliefs, perfumes, demons, as well as Jomo Miyo Lang, are one of the “five sisters of longevity”, giving food to the inhabitants of the five highest Himalayan peaks live on it. Before climbing Everest, the Sherpas each time hold a special puja ceremony, removing the dead, putting their thoughts and soul in order, and asking the spirits of the mountain to regret them and not to destroy them.

The ascent was made along the complex route, which ran along the southwestern slope, which was previously considered impregnable. The first Soviet Himalayan expedition set another record. Some climbers reached the top at night. This was the first night climbing Jomolungma above the mountains on Earth. For decades, the history of the Everest expedition has attracted the attention of many climbers and the mountain is still considered the most dangerous.

Climbing Everest is then fraught with high risk. By the time the first Soviet Himalayan expedition was planned, the top was conquered by only a person, while the same number did not reach it, dying upon ascent. None of the Soviet climbers died. A great merit in this organizers of the expedition and personally Evgeny Tamma. The chairman of the Federation of Climbing the USSR and headed the expedition, having previously selected all the participants.

The sink was tough. Participants had to have a title of no lower than a candidate for a master of sports, to make at least two climbing to the top of at least 6 meters, the age should not exceed 40 years there was only one exception. As part of the preparation for the Himalayan expedition of daredevils, and there were only twenty of them, there were climbing Elbrus and three ascents to the Soviet seven -thousandths.

Participants also had to pass several serious endurance checks. The candidates were “tested” in hypobaric baroacers, in which they created pressure close to the one that a person should experience at an altitude of 10 kilometers. In addition, the athletes were subjected to significant loads, experienced cold, etc. The graphic image 2 with the signature will be placed here: “Soviet expedition to Everest” “Soviet expedition to Everest” begin to live differently and think “Everest is a swivel milestone in the life of any person who sought there, who reached the top and, moreover, went down from there.

For many, it serves as the end point of the life path. But those who go down from there begin to live differently, otherwise think, because it is an extraordinary event, especially when the ascent was committed not at the end of his life, but at the beginning,-Mikhail Turkevich recalled in one interview. In a sports career, it was a real opportunity to advance in the national team of the USSR.

When a successful ascent occurs at the beginning of a sports career, in the prime of strength, you rise and see that the horizons are large, just huge. From Everest you can see far and you can choose any direction that you like. ” In the year, the opportunity to conquer the peak in accordance with the Nepal authorities, the lists were provided to the Spaniards, but they accepted the proposal of the Soviet Union, agreeing to the exchange of expeditions.

The base camp was defeated on March 22 at the foot of Everest. Local Sherpas did not rise above 8 meters, Soviet climbers went to conquer the top alone. Forty years ago, on May 4, a Soviet flag was installed at the highest point of the globe, and Leonid Brezhnev was sent a radiogram about the ascent of the group of our brave men to Everest. So far, not a single climber has been able to climb the top along the route of the Soviet expedition.

The climbers do not go to the climbers “Why do people climb into the mountains, at risk? They ask constantly. In short, I really want. Probably, to express yourself, to show the rest that you are worth something. Alpinism is a sport where the account does not go for a second, nor meters, nor for kilograms. There are other measurements here. In front of you is the vertical wall that must be passed.

The climbers, as a rule, do not go weak. Those who believe in themselves are in their partner, ”these words belong to Mikhail Turkevich.The first is a legendary personality for Donetsk mountaineering. A native of the Lviv region was born on March 22 in the village of Uteshkov, he graduated from the Kiev topographic technical school and the Kiev State Institute of Physical Culture, “fell ill with mountains” in the year, and the following year he moved to Donetsk.

He made about 30 climbs along the routes of the highest category of complexity. The Donbass Club Club of Donbass, the real dawn of Donetsk mountaineering came in the years. The order of its creation was personally signed by the Minister of Coal Industry Nikolai Versosovtsev, who himself was a fan of relaxing in the mountains. Soon, a program of preparation for climbing Everest, which was almost twenty years old, was declared.

Mikhail Turkevich was the chairman of the regional climbing club "Donbass", initiated the construction of the climbing base in the Donetsk region. He worked in the Russian Emergencies Ministry from the year. And he became the co -author of the training program for rescuers, which they continue to use in the development of regulatory acts and instructions now.

The recommendations of Mikhail Turkevich on organizing rescue operations in the mountains saved hundreds of human lives in extreme conditions. Literature was helped by the expedition at Lhotsz of the year - one of the most important steps to form a rescue high -mountain detachment, a kind of rapid response group of the Russian Emergencies Ministry, capable of acting at any heights.

It became possible, among other things, thanks to the book of Mikhail Turkevich, Search and Rescue Work in the Mountains. Sergei Shoigu got acquainted with this textbook, diluted memories and live examples. At that time, the Minister of the Russian Federation for Civil Defense, Emergency Situations and the Elimination of the Consequences of Natural Disasters invited the author to the reception and during the conversation there were “found” funds for the expedition.

Mikhail worked in the kitchen at the computer, made up the next article, in connection with which he was lined with all kinds of books and magazines.

No introduction, we immediately plunged into the atmosphere of the house and its owner, were drawn into the whirlpool of his life. It so happened that we interviewed, although now the language does not turn to name this conversation that. It was first about Everest, and then about everything painful. There were a lot of joint ideas immediately what to write, how, about which Mikhail Turkevich possessed a literary gift and became the author of three books - “Call of the distant peaks”, “Climbing”, “Rescue work”, also worked a lot on the “Clinism” sections of several encyclopedias.

Until the last day, he remained a man enthusiastic and cheerful. Mikhail Turkevich died in the year on vacation in Sochi from an acute attack of pancreatitis, the body was delivered to Moscow, where he was in cremation. He bequeathed to bury his ashes in a mountain crack ... at the climbing climber near the village of Zuevka, that in the Donbass, regularly in the spring and autumn of Donetsk climbers and climbers, competitions in the technique of memory of one of the heroes of Everest Mikhail Turkevich were a universal climber.

With him, as all who knew this courageous person noted, it was easy to communicate, perhaps because every conversation with him was like a sip of mountain air, so familiar to the legendary conqueror of Everest. When using information, a hyperlink on the website Novostivolgograda. Complete rules network edition "News Volgograd.